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Limiting Your Materials in Jewelry Design

It may feel as if limiting the available materials is removing options; but actually, it often creates a simpler, more understandable design. Rather than pulling in every bead, stone accent, chain, wire sample, and metal tone, a more limited palette allows every piece of material in the design to do one job. And the result may not appear at all plain. It may just appear as a focused, wearable, more intentionally designed piece.

A limited palette usually means to pull out just a few materials that would be included in the design before making the first sketches or making a sample layout. So, in the jewelry making, we would have just one metal tone, one main color for the beads, one texture for an accent, and one type of chain. The resulting design still has variety, which is needed to keep the design interesting; but it no longer appears so scattered. The resulting piece will still be designed with contrast, just more controlled contrast.

Plainness appears when you have a lot of similar beads, finishes, visual weight, and size. If a bracelet is made out of identical size beads that are all the same glossy finish, it may look flat, even if it is a really pretty color of beads. If a pendant is made out of a single smooth stone on a smooth chain, you may need to introduce some texture, perhaps with a twist of wire detail, another matte bead, or the outline shape around the pendant setting. The idea is to not add more materials, but to add a better relationship between what you have.

You could lay out your materials to see how they work before making a final sketch. Start out with the main, main idea of the piece in the center and add in only the two main ideas around it. Look at each element separately by looking at color, texture, and size. If the idea is focused on gemstone accents, then you could be much quieter with the beads around. If a chain idea has a really bold or heavy visual weight, then a pendant idea may need to stay very simple. This allows you to test if a design is looking calm or if it is looking like an idea.

One way to learn about using a limited material palette is to sketch out an earring pair or a pendant design in three different ways using the same limited palette. In the first drawing, try to make the design interesting with color. In a second design, try to make the design interesting with texture. In a third drawing, try to make the design interesting with shape. You may have the same beads, chain, and metal color in all three drawings; but, you may use these differently, perhaps changing the layout or proportion of each. In this way, you could have a variety of designs made out of only the same supplies.

Keep in mind that editing a design is a normal part of creating a design. When a design idea appears dull or plain, you do not have to immediately add one more charm or one more color to the piece. Instead, you could try changing the distance between the beads or making the main idea slightly larger, perhaps changing the shape of the outline, or changing how the metal and stones balance. A tiny adjustment of scale may look like a more graceful line of a necklace. A tiny adjustment of repetition may make a layout of bracelets seem less rigid.

A limited material palette works very well when each material choice is purposeful. One choice is the main idea, one choice is the support idea, and one choice is the contrast choice. If you do not know which choice in the design to leave out, cover one of your choices in the sketch with your finger and see if it works better. If the design idea looks clearer, then you may not need the covered choice. If the design idea looks like it lost its pace or its main idea, then the covered choice was doing a good job of supporting the design idea. This simple way to edit your choices may turn an idea that looks plain into a much cleaner design idea without making the idea crowded.